Fibres And Yarns

Avani / Fibres And Yarns

Hand Spun Tibetan Sheep Wool

As the name suggests, this long fibre and very warm wool comes from the Tibetan plateau, a high altitude region of the Himalayas. Tibetan sheep wool is easily handspun by local people, gets softer with use and is very durable. Tibetan sheep wool is often blended with other fibres, including merino wool and silk. Currently, Avani does not use Tibetan sheep wool as it becomes extremely difficult to procure.

Harsil Wool

Avani now uses primarily Harsil wool which is local sheep wool produced in the Garhwal region of Uttarakhand. Avani procures the raw wool slivers that are primarily hand spun on drop spindles.

Hand Spun and Machine Yarn in Australian Merino Wool

This wool is produced in India as well as imported from Australia. It is softer than Tibetan wool and is used to create blends with different silks for a range of softer products.

Pashmina

Avani has also briefly worked with creating a small range of goods using pashmina purchased as a raw material from Tibet and Ladakh in India.

Avani uses wild silks (as opposed to cultivated silk) in its products. The three varieties of wild silks are eri, muga and tussar. Avani also cultivated wild silks of eri, muga and oak tussar for five years (2004-2009) with local host plant species. We had to abandon this project due to lack of technical support. Silk yarns vary in their method of production. A yarn that is reeled with machines uses un-pierced silk cocoons, in which the cocoon is steam boiled to kill the pupa. This is done to stop the growth of the moth, which would have pierced the cocoon in its natural course. In the case of silks used by Avani, the pupa metamorphosizes into a moth after which the silk is hand spun to create Ahmisa Silk, or non-violent silk. The moth pierces the cocoon to escape resulting in fibre that can be spun by hand. With the exception of some muga silk, the other silks used by Avani are Ahimsa Silks.

Hand-Spun Tussar Silk

Tussar silk was originally collected in the form of cocoons by some tribal communities in the forests of Central and Eastern India. Avani purchases tussar silk yarn from other parts of the country, supporting the livelihood of many Indian spinners. Tussar silk has a unique, pebbly texture and is naturally beige in color.

Hand-Spun Eri Silk

The cocoons of eri silk are collected in the wild from castor plants in local villages. Alternatively, eri silkworms are fed on leaves picked from these castor plants. Eri silk is always hand spun (thus non-violent), and is unique in its natural insulating properties.

Hand and Machine-Spun Muga Silk

Muga is the most expensive and the finest of India’s wild silks. It is collected from the forests in the Northeast, where its host trees, Litchia polyantha and Michelis Bombacina, are found. It is naturally gold in colour, with an extremely rich texture. The yield of muga silk is very low, making it extremely expensive. Aside from our hand-spun muga silk, we also purchase reeled muga silk from producers in Assam to meet our production demands.

Linen

Avani now works with a specialised range of products in pure linen as well as linen blended with silk and wool. The spun linen yarn is procured from Calcutta.